Beta @ a Glance

Why wait to figure out what all that climbing jargon means? Why hang around the crags guessing what everyone's talking about when Beta@AGlance explains all? Even if you're already a seasoned climber, you may find a few new definitions here.

YDS: Yosemite Decimal System, used to rate difficulty of climbs. Ranging from 5.1 to 5.14. 5th class means you use protection for safety but not for help in climbing, which is aid climbing or 6th class. 4th class utilizes some pro, but often runs out for a hundred feet without any (due to low danger of falling - long run out with higher danger of falling is covered below).

Carabiner/'biner: alumninum (or steel) oval (or D or pear shaped) with an opening gate on one side.

Quickdraw/draw: Two caribiners attached by a short nylon runner.

Clip: attach either a quickdraw into a bolt or pro, or your rope into the other end of the draw.

Bolt/bolt hanger: piece of metal held onto cliff face by a bolt, with a hole into which you clip biners.

Piton: metal thing you hammer into a crack, then clip your rope to. Removing pitons causes pin scarring and sometimes destroys the crack and the climb. Some routes (particularly big walls) are rated with the prefix C for "clean." This means "do not place or remove fixed pitons" or "if you hammer this route (place pitons), we'll hammer you!" Use clean pro instead, which can be placed and removed without damage to the rock.

Pin: see Piton.

Big Wall: multi-pitch continuous route usually requiring an overnight stay on the wall.

Naked: climbing barefoot.

Mantle: climbing move involving using a hand as a foot by pushing downward with the palm.

Undercling: a downward-facing hold gripped from below - the hand below, that is, and pulling up. If you try to undercling with your body too low, it's harder and less likely to work.

Side-pull: vertical crack, ledge, or flake gripped from the side.

Arete: a large vertical rock edge or corner. Like a vertical ridge.

Barn-door: when a climber's body swings away from an overhanging wall to one side. Typical prelude to a fall on slight overhangs when one hand slips, launching the climber into an ungraceful spinning fall.

Deck: base of the climb, or to bodily impact the base of the climb (don't try this at home, kids!).

Crater: to deck hard.

Exposure: when the base is a considerable distance below.

No-Hands rest: place where a climber may stand and rest without using hand holds.

TR Flash: successful first ascent on top rope.

Belay: person or gear controlling rope while the other climber ascends or lowers, or the act of doing so.

Fear: that funny, unsettling feeling inside that causes 95% of the world's problems but makes a tough time so much more rewarding than an easy one.

Life: time and activity of mortality. Intended to be rewarding. Face your fears! Stretch your comfort zone!

HAC: High Adventure Coalition. Hot new adventure organization with chapters in Utah Valley, Mesa, AZ, Germany, and wherever you want to establish one.

Red Point: successful ascent of a route with no falls or illegal rests.

Flash: red point on a climber's first attempt of a route.

On-sight: successful lead when a climber has no prior experience, including watching another climber, on a route. One step up from a Flash, though many climbers use the terms interchangeably.
Pink Point: red point, except that quickdraws were already in place in bolts.

Brown Point: a lead climb in which the climber fell, rested on the rope, or used illegal holds (bolts or other gear) but gained the top of the route. Not commonly used, since nobody really cares how much you hang dog until red pointing.

White Point: red point at night with articificial light.

Black Point: red point at night without artificial light. Not recommended on unfamiliar routes.

Eclipse: night time flash without artificial light.

Beta: advice on how to climb, where to find holds, etc. May act as noun or verb (i.e.: "Beta me!"). Hint: most climbers do not want your advice, so shut up.

Whistler/ screamer: a fast, far fall through empty air. Ever wonder about the maximum velocity of a falling object? This experiment will give you some idea.

Dyno/ dynamic move: a quick move for a hold--if you miss, you'll most likely fall.

Static move: not dynamic. Body points not moving toward new holds are sufficient to hold the climber on the wall.

Lunge: a significant jump for a hold.

Pop: a short dyno.

Chains: anchors found at the top of most sport routes and many trad routes from which you belay or through which you run the rope to lower off. IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER detach yourself from the rope without first securing yourself to the chains AND tying the rope to something so it can not be dropped!! This is how many climbers die. DO NOT do it! Create safe habits and stick with them. Use two points of attachment whenever possible.

Sport climbing: climbing done on entirely bolted routes. Often steep and technical. Fun!

Trad/Traditional/Natural Pro: natural protection as opposed to fixed pro like bolts and pins. Instead use removable nuts, cams, slings, and sometimes pitons.  Usually done in cracks.

Mixed: climbing or route with a mixture of fixed and natural pro, or ice and rock.

Bucket: a hold like the lip of a bucket. A sport climber's favorite.

Silver Bucket: That great little metal hold bolted to the rock which you shouldn't use. At least don't put your finger through it. Otherwise known as a bolt.

Melonhead: what happens when you allow the rope to pass behind your leg on lead, then fall. Origin of term: smash a watermelon in the road, you'll get the picture.