A
frothy white river tumbled through the rain forest 850 feet below me. Thousand-foot cliffs
enclosed the narrow valley on three sides, including the headwall where I hung suspended
on an 11-millimeter rope next to the waterfall.I had
already rappelled the first 150 feet and passed the first knot. Ben and I drove to Mexico
five days ago and this descent of Basaseachic Falls was the highlight of the trip. Except
that it didnt much feel like a highlight now.
"This is crazy!" I whispered to myself. We were told
that this rappel was 311 meters high. Our five climbing ropes tied end to end totaled only
270 meters.
When I reached the end of the rope, I could expect one of three
possibilities: the measurement could be off or the ropes could stretch enough to get me to
the bottom, I could walk off on a ledge twenty meters from the bottom, or I could clip my
ascenders to the rope and climb all thousand feet back to the top.
Of course Ben and I had already thought over all these
possibilities. We tied off and rappelled just over the cliff on the south side of the
falls first to consider that route. Because it didnt have a high ledge to walk off
and because we would almost surely land in the frothing pool below and not on solid
ground, we chose to drop down the north side.
"Do you really think we should do this?" I asked Ben
after I had climbed over the chain link fence and stared down.
"Absolutely," he answered. He didnt seem to share
my doubts of the sanity of this venture.
I leaned back on the rope and let it slide through my hands and my
figure eight until I stood directly above the thousand foot drop. In my head, I reminded
myself of the thought that came to me as we tied our ropes together for this descent.
"This is why you came," it said. Yeah, my mind answered. This was the
main reason for the entire trip. For the three thousand miles of highway. If I didnt
rappel Basaseachic, I would always regret it.
"See ya at the bottom," I told Ben, and let the rope
slide through my hands again as the comfortable and secure world of the cliff top slipped
out of sight.
Now I had reached the second rope. If I was going to turn around,
I should do it soon. I looked at the thin rope in my hand and silently reassured myself of
its strength. I looked up to the top of the cliff and wondered if the edge of the cliff
could be cutting through the ropes outer sheath. I looked down to where the rope lay
caught up in branches and wondered if it would reach the ground.
These worries crept slowly down my throat, clawing their way to
the pit of my stomach, tightening every muscle along its path. My heart beat a little
faster, and then I asked myself one question: so what if the rope does break or if
I have to free climb down a little ways at the bottom or ascend all the way back up?
Whats the worst that could happen?
I took a deep breath and held it for a moment before letting it
go. "If I die, I die," I told myself. "I might as well enjoy the
ride."
With that thought, I pushed the fears and unknowns out of my mind.
I turned to my right to watch the millions of gallons of white water falling past me. My
mouth dropped open as I was able to appreciate its stunning beauty for the first time.
Just above the cliff, years of the river's sloshing by gouged deep
slots into the rock. At the edge of the cliff, gravity and momentum dragged the river into
thin air - the path of least resistance. Between the violent river above and the distant
roaring thunder where the river boiled in a large pool below, an enchanting crystal
tinkling of water drops filled the air.
I continued to watch, spell bound, as fifty-gallon-drum fulls of
water that fell away from the main shaft of the falls caught the air and opened abruptly
like parachute canopies. Downdrafts from the falls caught the inside edge of these
canopies and sent them spinning and swirling downward, only to explode open again a few
hundred feet farther down.
For the full thousand feet this river fell and exploded and
whirled and touched nothing but open, empty space until it reached the pool at the base. I
hung on the rope and watched all this for perhaps two full minutes. I considered tying
myself off and getting my camera from my back pack, but I hadnt relaxed quite enough
for that. Of course I deeply regret that now. Instead, I loosed my grip on the rope
and let it slide through my figure eight another hundred and fifty feet to the next knot.
"As long as Im here, I might as well enjoy the
ride," I reminded myself under my breath.